Cats of Cairo

Snoozing in the garden of the National Museum

Anyone who travels in the Muslim world will notice something--there are an awful lot of cats around. There's a big tradition of loving cats in Muslim society, especially Arab society. The Hadith even has a story about how Mohammad was sitting with some of his followers preaching when a cat curled up on the corner of his robe and went to sleep. When Mohammad finished his sermon the cat was still asleep, and rather than disturb it he cut off the corner of his robe.

In my last two writing retreats in Cairo, I met plenty of Egyptian cats. Here are a few.

Begging for food at a restaurant at Saqqara

Admiring the sunset along the Corniche on the banks of the Nile

The disused back staircase in my building has been taken over by cats

Admiring some historic Muslim architecture

Military History Photo Friday: Historic Forts in Saudi Arabia

When we think of Saudi Arabia, we generally don't think of castles, but a fair number dot the arid landscape of the desert kingdom. One of the most impressive is Marid Castle, pictured above. Located in the ancient city of Dumat al-Jandal in the north of the country. The city dates all the way back to at least the tenth century BC. It's unclear how old the fort is, but it existed by 272 AD. It was the site of numerous battles, most recently in 1853 and 1909. During the second attack it withstood a siege of ten months before finally falling.

Perhaps the most impressive fortification was Ajyad Fortress, an Ottoman citadel built in 1780 overlooking Mecca in order to protect the holy city from raiders. Despite the Bedouin being Muslims themselves, they weren't averse to robbing Muslim pilgrims. In a controversial move, the Saudi government demolished the historic fort in 2002 in order to build luxury a hotel for rich pilgrims. This has been part of an ongoing campaign to demolish historic sites, especially ones from the pre-Islamic period or sites that remind the Saudis of the time when they were part of the Ottoman Empire.

Many small forts were built at oases along the pilgrimage route to protect the pilgrims from bandits.  Some date to the reign of the Ottoman Sultan Suleiman the Magnificent (ruled 1520-1566), who had forts built to protect the main routes. This one at Dhat al-Hajj still stands, although in poorer condition than this photo from 1907 shows. It's a simple structure, but that would be all that would be needed to ward off the Bedouin, who lacked artillery.

A similar fort stands at Al-Ukhaydir, and was also built by Sultan Suleiman the Magnificent. This photo from 1907 shows the fort at the center and some Bedouin tents to the left.


Photos courtesy Wikimedia Commons, because that's probably the closest I'll ever get to Saudi Arabia.

Back from Tangier, headed to Italy!

I just got back from a three-week writing retreat in Tangier. The weather was cold and rainy, so I didn't see much of the countryside, but I did get a lot of writing done, saw a few things I hadn't discovered before like a historic synagogue, and spent time with old friends.

My family came down for part of it and the weather miraculously cleared. We got to take some long walks through the city and enjoy one of my favorite cafes, Cafe Hafa. It's set on a steep slope overlooking the Strait of Gibraltar, with the seats practically clinging to the cliff!

Now I'm back in Europe and rediscovering the joys of central heating. We're off for five days to Italy right after Christmas. We're going to stay in Bologna and use it as a base to explore Florence and Ravenna. Have a safe and happy holiday and I'll post some pictures once I get back!

Book Review: Islamic Art by David Talbot Rice

Islamic Art by David Talbot Rice
My rating: 3 of 5 stars

This is a classic and much-reprinted primer on the highlights of Islamic art. I got the 1975 revised Thames & Hudson edition for free at a library giveaway (yippee!) so this is the edition I'm reviewing. I found the text clear and wide ranging. While it didn't go into as much detail as I would have liked, this is meant as a short introduction to a huge subject and does that quite well. I've studied Islamic art in a casual way for 25 years now and I still learned a lot from the text.

My main complaint is that the illustrations aren't up to par. Most are in somewhat grainy black and white and don't do these magnificent works of art justice. Even some of the images of illustrated manuscripts are in black and white. There are several color plates in this book but they are not of terribly good quality. I recommend this book for anyone looking to learn more about one of the world's great art traditions, but suggest that you look for a later, better illustrated edition.

View all my reviews

Back from Tangier!

I just flew back from Tangier, and boy are my arms tired!

Actually it's my fingers that are tired from all the writing I did. Now that The Last Hotel Room is up for nomination on Kindle Scout (please vote!) I've been working on some new projects in my regular Moroccan writing retreat. The first is a ghostwriting project that takes the characters to Morocco, plus I'm also writing a Western. Yeah, it takes some stretching of the imagination to do that one while living in a Moroccan medina.

Anyway, I had a great time as usual, seeing old friends and making some new ones. Being away from email and editors helped me focus on the writing, getting 4,000 words done on most days. While I write for a living and usually have a good daily word count, when I'm in Madrid there always seems to be some sort of distraction or unavoidable timesuck that keeps me from usually hitting so high.

So what's next for the traveling writer? I might have a quick trip here in Spain this month, but otherwise I'll be in Madrid until mid July, when we head up to Oxford for our usual summer stay. After that maybe Turkey and definitely Tangier!

Words Matter Journalism Anthology Out Now!

I'm very happy and proud to have one of my articles from Iraq, "Video Games with a Refugee" included in the University of Missouri press anthology, Words Matter: Writing to Make A Difference. My contribution is about playing with a young Syrian refugee I met in Najaf while writing a series on Iraq. This piece won the 2013 Society of American Travel Writers Award. Here's the blurb for the book:

Newspapers and magazines have been steadily shrinking, and more and more former subscribers have gone to digital and internet sources for the news. Yet it has become increasingly clear that “short takes” don’t satisfy many readers, who still long for nuanced, long form journalism. By providing examples of classic magazine articles by professional writers, all of whom are graduates of the Missouri School of Journalism, this book fulfills the need for more sophisticated, thought-provoking essays that will resonate with both the general reader and students.

The book is divided into three broad categories: profiles, first person journalism, and personal memoirs, and includes the original articles as well as a “postscript” by the writers in which they discuss what they’ve learned about writing, journalism, and the business of getting published. Useful for students and instructors in writing programs, the book also appeals to writers interested in both the art and the craft of successful writing.

By the way, you can still read my piece on the now.defunct but still online travel blog Gadling. The article is here.

Insecure Writer's Support Group: Switching Genres

Here we are at another Insecure Writer's Support Group, where we air out our collective writerly angst to the world!

Today my topic is switching genres. I've done it before, having written science fiction, fantasy, horror, action/adventure, and western. For my latest book I'm switching genres again.

This time, though, it's a bigger leap. The Last Hotel Room is set in contemporary Tangier and takes on contemporary issues. It isn't speculative fiction like so many of my works. A marketer would probably label it as "literary" although I don't think that's a term an author should use on oneself.

I'm about halfway through the first draft and it's an interesting experience writing about a place where I often visit and dealing with issues that touch me like the refugee crisis. It's also a challenge to write a novel without any gun fights, magic, or spaceships! Whether or not it will work as a novel is still in question. It's also unclear if my readers will follow me that far from my usual path.

That's OK, I'm still writing plenty of the other stuff in 2016!

Travel Tuesday: Shoes on a wire--different places, different meanings

I took this shot in Ljubljana, the capital of Slovenia, back in 2013. This is one of the many wires in the city festooned with shoes. A local explained to me that the university students throw shoes up there in celebration of the end of term.

At least that's what it means in Slovenia. In the United States, shoes hanging on a wire is a common sign that a drug dealer operates on that street.

In the Arab world, shoes on a wire mean something absolutely different. The sole of the shoe is dirty and it's considered rude to sit in a way that shows the sole, or to touch someone with it. That's why after the fall of Baghdad we saw those pictures of Iraqis slapping statues of Saddam Hussein with their shoes. In the West Bank, I saw shoes hanging on wires over many streets. They had been thrown there by Palestinians in order to insult the Israeli patrols as they walked under them.

I suppose that other countries have their own meanings. Can you name any I've missed?

Military History Photo Friday: Mamluk Warriors

This impressive guy is a Mamluk nobleman from Aleppo, in what is now Syria. He was painted by William Page in the early 19th century and the image comes via Wikimedia Commons. The Mamluks started as slave soldiers in 13th century Egypt, fighting as elite cavalry and eventually taking over.

As rulers of Egypt they were famous for their martial prowess and harsh rule. They were highly conservative, however, and didn't update their tactics, eventually becoming subservient to the Ottomans in the early 16th century.

One of the last great fights of the Mamluk cavalry was the Battle of the Pyramids in 1798, when they tried to fight off Napoleon's invading army. They tried their usual tactic of a mass charge, firing their carbines, then their brace of pistols, before closing with a lance or scimitars in each hand. While this always worked well against Bedouin raiders or peasants rebelling against their high taxes, the French easily pushed them back with concentrated volleys and cannon fire. The Mamluks lost several thousand men while the French lost only 29.

That fateful charge is depicted in another early painting, this one from 1906. If the Mamluks looked like that, the French must have been pretty sure of themselves. I would have been climbing the nearest pyramid!

Military History Photo Friday: An Assyrian Chariot from the National Museum of Iraq

This bas-relief shows an Assyrian chariot, c. 9th century BC. The king stands in all his splendor, relaxing under a parasol as he runs over an enemy. His soldiers have gathered a pile of heads for his inspection. Yeah, the Middle East has been a rough place for quite some time now.

If we are to judge from Assyrian art, the chariot was an important arm of their powerful war machine. Chariots could move quickly, with a driver steering while an archer fired from the back. The chariots could be used to break up enemy formations before the Assyrian infantry moved in, as well as for scouting missions and running down fleeing soldiers. The Assyrians had one of the most organized and technologically advanced armies of the time, with elaborate siege machines, a disciplined and professional force, and quality weapons. It's no wonder they were both feared and hated.

I took this shot in the National Museum of Iraq when I was in Baghdad in 2012. Yeah, I'm still nattering on about that trip. I haven't gotten to travel much in the past year so I miss being on the road! Hopefully 2016 will be a better travel year. I've also blogged about the museum for Black Gate, with plenty more photos.

Travel Tuesday: Street Food in Iraq

Mazgouf, a fish native to the Tigris River, being cooked by an open fire at Abu Nuwas Park, Baghdad. This is a local specialty. The fish is cut in half and cooked. The remaining skin acts as a bowl as you scoop out the gooey innards.

There's been a lot of grim news coming out of Iraq for a long time now. Usually when we see Iraq on TV we see some psycho fundamentalist or something that's just blown up. So it's important to remember that real people still live there and are trying to make the most out of a bad situation.

Back in 2012 I traveled to Iraq and wrote a series about it for the now moribund travel blog Gadling. It was one of the best and most intense trips of my life. Click the link to read the series. Sadly, the photo galleries have been taken offline, but you can still read the articles.

So here, for your culinary enjoyment, are some photos of the food, mostly street food, I ate while I was there. There are more after the jump. Bon appetit!

Mazgouf ready to be eaten.

Military History Photo Friday: Fakhr-al-Din al-Maani Castle, Palmyra, Syria

Fakhr-al-Din al-Maani Castle, photo courtesy the Institute for the Study of the Ancient World.

This imposing castle is called the Qalat ibn Maan and overlooks the ancient city of Palmyra in Syria. I visited way back in 1994 and just wrote about my experiences for Black Gate, reflecting on what's going to happen to the site now that ISIS has taken it over.

I have clear memories of this castle. As you can see from the top photo, there's a steep climb to get up there. I remember huffing and puffing in the desert sun to make it to the base of the wall, only to spot the other side, which you can see in the below photo. There was a road leading right up to it I could have walked on and saved myself the trouble!

As it was, I was stuck on a narrow ledge running around the base of the wall. As I inched my way around, a Syrian family strolling up the road gave me a friendly wave.

After making a fool of myself, I thoroughly enjoyed exploring the castle and mounting one of the towers for a sweeping view of the oasis, the ancient site, and the surrounding desert. The castle was built around 1230 to protect this important caravan stop between Mesopotamia and the Mediterranean. Nowadays Palmyria is still strategically important. It was the scene of fierce fighting over the last few years between government forces and rebels, and just a couple of weeks ago ISIS swept in from the east and took it over. Reports indicate the castle has been battered by RPG, artillery, and small arms fire.

It's still standing, though, and now bears scars from another tumultuous era of the history of the Middle East.

Another view of the castle, courtesy Jerzy Strzelecki via Wikimedia Commons.

Military History Photo Friday: Spanish Artillery Uniform for Morocco Service

I'm recently back from one of my regular trips to Morocco, where I saw old friends, made some new ones, and got some writing done. I managed not to take any photographs when I was there, otherwise I'd share them with you.

Luckily, there's an exhibition here in Madrid about the history of artillery in Spain. One of the pieces was this Spanish artilleryman's uniform from the 1910s. Part of Morocco was a Spanish colony at the time and men posted there wore special uniforms more adapted to the climate. You can compare it with a contemporary standard uniform to the right.

The material is lighter and seems to be local cloth. It looks like the cloth still used in some Moroccan djelabas today. It's light and breathes well, and also gets nice and warm if you layer it. Morocco is a cold country with a hot sun, as the local saying goes, so you have to dress properly!

Military History Photo Friday: Moroccan Warriors

I'm still in a Moroccan frame of mind after my trip to Tangier, so here's a 19th century painting by  Eugene Delacroix showing Moroccan warriors practicing some maneuvers. The Moroccans prided themselves on their horsemanship and their ability to fire from horseback even at a gallop. Those long muskets they have are called mukahla. The long barrel helped make these homemade guns more accurate.

The mukahla was highly decorated, often with mother of pearl. If you want one, there are plenty of shops in Tangier's medina that will sell you "genuine antiques" at appropriate prices!

Image courtesy Wikimedia Commons.

Back from Tangier!

Hello everyone. I just got back from a week in Tangier, Morocco, where I like to hang out and write. It's only an hour flight from Madrid so it makes a cheap and convenient getaway. This time my wife came with me so we could celebrate our 14th anniversary! She took this photo of me next to Paul Bowles' typewriter, part of the exhibition at the American Legation.

I had a good time as usual and hope to return in May. I have a novel set there that's progressing in fits and starts. It progresses much better when I'm in Tangier so I'd like to do a proper retreat there. We shall see.

So where will we go for the big 15? One possibility is Iran, which I loved when I visited in the 90s. My wife is eager to see Isfahan and Persepolis. Less adventurous ideas include Greece and Sicily. That's a year away, though, so there's plenty of time to plan!

Book Review: For Bread Alone by Mohamed Chukri

El Pan a Secas by Mohamed Chukri
My rating: 4 of 5 stars

I read this in the Spanish edition by the excellent small press Cabaret Voltaire, which has translated many Moroccan authors. Since all my Goodreads friends and blog readers speak English as a first or second language, I'll review it in English and point them to the English language edition that's titled For Bread Alone.

This is the first of a projected autobiographical trilogy, of which only two were written. In this book, Chukri talks about his childhood suffering poverty and near starvation in the Rif of Morocco. In desperation, his family moves to Tangier during its glory days as an international port. Fleeing a violent father, Chukri takes to the streets, where he hustles, steals, and gets involved with organized crime.

The scenes of Tangier's seamy side are riveting. We meet thieves, drug addicts, smugglers, and prostitutes of both sexes. Chukri's candid description of sex, homosexuality, drugs, and violence are rare in an Arab author and got him banned in Morocco for many years. I found it similar to Genet's Diary of A Thief, although plain-spoken where Genet's style is flowery. The two became friends later when Chukri lifted himself out of his misery and illiteracy to become one of Morocco's most celebrated authors.

If you have a weak stomach, you might find some of this hard reading, but it gives a picture of a different Tangier than the one painted by notable expats such as William S. Burroughs and Paul Bowles. I could have used some more detail about the culture and daily life in Tangier. I suppose, though, that Chukri intended this for a Moroccan audience that wouldn't need such information.

Highly recommended for anyone interested in Tangier, Morocco, and the Arab World.

View all my reviews

Book Review: Leo Africanus

Leo Africanus by Amin Maalouf
My rating: 5 of 5 stars

What a wonderful novel. This is everything a historical novel should be--rich in period detail, meticulously researched, and filled with believable characters that bring the era alive.
Based on the true story of one of the great Muslim travelers, we get to see the Songhai Empire, the capture of Egypt by the Ottomans, and the high culture and low morals of Renaissance Rome.
The real Leo Africanus is an enigmatic figure and there are large gaps in what we know of his life. Maalouf fills these with all sorts of adventures and meetings with famous people and weaves fiction and history seamlessly together.
Maalouf explains everything well and the reader is never lost despite the flurry of names and places. At times I could have used some more detail and felt that even at 360 densely set pages that it was a bit rushed. I would have been happy for it to have been twice as long!
If you like historical novels and have an interest in the Muslim world or Renaissance history, be sure to pick up this modern classic.

View all my reviews

New travel series on Iraq

Yes, I haven't posted on this blog for a while, but there's a new crop of book reviews coming up so it will get a bit more lively here. Right now I'm busy on my latest series for Gadling, which is about traveling in Iraq. I spent 17 days in the country last month and I'm writing a long series about my intense yet mostly positive experiences there. It's called Destination: Iraq. Check it out!